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Guys... broham71 was asking about the lower shock bolt, not a strut bolt.

Rear suspension lower shock bolt (first post): 66 ft/lbs


Now.. How about the torque value for the rear suspension's longer lower control arm (there are two LCA's per side, remember) to rear upright (hub) bolt. The outer bolt.

:dunno:
 

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Damn, saved my butt. FJ rocks.

Front subframe bolts...
 

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Rear hub/bearing nut 173 ft lbs. for either disc/drum
While tightening down rotate hub counter clockwise.
 

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I didn't see the arm that the manual calls "front lower arm" (aka "toe arm")... it is 85 pound feet (115 Newton meters).

This is one of the "ride height" arms that you can't tighten unless you have set and hold the suspension height first... that is if you use stock parts with rubber bushings. If you use CFM or Massive or other similar arms, you don't have to worry about ride height, they freely slide into place on the balls (possible that well lubed poly bushes will do the same).
 

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Rear:

Upper control arm (inner) - 76-85 lb-ft
Upper control arm (outer, cam adjustment bolt) - 55 lb-ft
Lower control arm (inside) - 111 lb-ft
Lower control arm to Knuckle/trailing arm - 85 lb-ft
G-forces said:
"front lower arm" (aka "toe arm")... it is 85 pound feet
I was wondering if I could get some clarification. My Haynes manual has different info for the Upper Control Arm, 85 lb-ft for both bolts. It doesn't have anything listed for the Front and Rear LCA's. What are the correct torque specs for the Rear LCA? I see some conflicting or missing info, and didn't want to break a bolt. :) Thanks.
 

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06 ZX4 2.0 Auto, daily driver
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20210412_141900.jpg


Dorman, not factory camber bolts. Torqued to 111 lbs.
I had to cut 1 out to get the arm out initially. I bought a pair because everything else under there is new or blasted etc... they are 10.9 bolts according to specs and they were easier to get than the 25mile trek to Ford parts, placed with another order of drums and such. It was 'convenient'.
Well, after a DROP EVERYTHING and RUN to Ford parts... Bill Dube parts gave me a KILLER deal!!! THANK YOU!!!
So I replaced the bolts with factory bolts, cams and nuts.
The supplier of these is willing to replace them as warranty items and I appreciate that. Replacement isn't the issue. They are unsafe imo.
I used the same torque wrench set to the same 111lbs. It clicked fine. The factory hardware is in and working fine.
I am aware that this is no technical test of accuracy on the wrench BUT, I have replaced the ENTIRE rear with poly bushings including dropping the subframe, all with the same click-click each time. Without issue. I torqued the lugs afterwards to 96lbs also with a solid click-click.
I'm pretty positive the issue is the hardware is cheap metal and is junk.
This is just my experience. Hopefully you will learn before it costs you time, money or a SERIOUS ACCIDENT!!!
 
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