Ford Focus Forum banner

241 - 260 of 272 Posts

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,209 Posts
I just reviewed all 16 pages of this thread and have come to the conclusion that SVT intake VCT times virtually exactly like the exhaust VCT on earlier Contour/ZX2 except for the fact that they have the VCT positive stop exactly the opposite of each other. The ZX2 stuff has you moving CAM clockwise to the positive stop and the SVT goes counterclockwise. Other than that no difference in the two at all.

I worked out how to positively set up the ZX2 type way way back when I realized the service manual did not address the issue for squat and almost exactly how COSVT03 describes these except like I said backward. I've never had a problem once setting them. Ford simply states you loosen the sprockets and then nothing else when it doesn't quite work. On the ZX2 that assumes the VCT is full of oil, but if not cam falls back when engine is rotated and the SVT gets off when the sprocket gets tightened. The only difference between the non-VCT motors and the VCT is that at the time you insert the cam bar tool in backs of cams the VCT on either type must be positively on that stop position.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
4,662 Posts
Discussion Starter #242
I just reviewed all 16 pages of this thread and have come to the conclusion that SVT intake VCT times virtually exactly like the exhaust VCT on earlier Contour/ZX2 except for the fact that they have the VCT positive stop exactly the opposite of each other. The ZX2 stuff has you moving CAM clockwise to the positive stop and the SVT goes counterclockwise. Other than that no difference in the two at all.

I worked out how to positively set up the ZX2 type way way back when I realized the service manual did not address the issue for squat and almost exactly how COSVT03 describes these except like I said backward. I've never had a problem once setting them. Ford simply states you loosen the sprockets and then nothing else when it doesn't quite work. On the ZX2 that assumes the VCT is full of oil, but if not cam falls back when engine is rotated and the SVT gets off when the sprocket gets tightened. The only difference between the non-VCT motors and the VCT is that at the time you insert the cam bar tool in backs of cams the VCT on either type must be positively on that stop position.
You are excatly correct amc49
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
8 Posts
Re: P1381 & P1383 Fix (STICKY once final)

I am having this same issue with my ford zx2...I timed it, and now it popped up a code of P 1381 and we all know what that is, but it tells me to adjust the intake, while holding the or locking the exhaust cam in place like above directions...curious thing here is there is no Pictures or a video any where on line to follow exact procedure...I am just afraid that I will mess it up...not afraid to try it all...I am not a pro mechanic but I can pull motors and work on cars, but this one here is very techy to me and its not easy. I had a P 1383 on the code, so I redid the timing myself...all said and done, I drove it for like 20 minutes and the p 1381 came up...so I am looking for pictures for where the Pin hole is to TDC the crank...and how to do the forward/backwards rotating the cam/intake cam like above...but this part is what I am worried about...I really do not want to redo my timing again...that was ugly job...lol any help from you guys on here would be great and very much appreciated...Thanks! (I don't want to damage my motor) what I need is pics and video procedure...
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
4,662 Posts
Discussion Starter #244
You can't mess this up people. You either get the VCT gear all the way to positive dead stop or you don't and get to redo it. Check your work twice or 3 times BEFORE you reassemble. Also - the ZX2 is the exact opposite of the SVT.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
3 Posts
so i just got this code as well and have zero mechanic knowledge about this. what i do know is that the previous owner did replace the belts not too long ago and supposedly this code never came up. i dont beat on my car at all. it wasnt running rough. the code just came out of nowhere.
im sure to take it to a mechanic, but in the meantime is the car safe to drive or will i make something worse?
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
3 Posts
i'll give that a try. im kind of scared to drive the car to be honest. i've broken a timing belt before and that was an expensive fix. so your thinkin i should try and clear it, drive it around, and wait for the CEL to come back? (or not come back)
is there any other symptoms i should try and keep an eye out for while i do this?
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
14 Posts
Is anyone in the Danbury, CT area that could help me with this procedure? Cars been sitting for a year tryin to figure this out... I can pay for your time lol
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
15 Posts
Cos, you have a new PM. Another member and myself tried completing this process to fix my P1383 code after we did my belt Saturday but still have lack of power in car. We seem to be getting confused with this process. I am by no means a mechanic or super advanced for that matter, but I should be able to comprehend this.

Here is how WE interpreted the fix...please let me know where we are going wrong.

1.) Remove valve cover, plugs and upper timing cover. Easy

2.) Rotate to TDC and insert timing pin. Easy

3.) Loosen exhaust cam gear w/T55 whilst holding w/cam plate. Easy

4.) Rotate intake cam w/ 1" wrench FORWARD towards front of car - We did this but I think we are confused as to what the steps are from this point on. Is the tensioner supposed to be tight and belt suppose to be on at this point? Advancing the intake cam means it goes FORWARD towards front of vehicle, correct?

I think the confusion lies starting at step 4 and going to the end. What is the next step? Is it to rotate the Cam with the 1" wrench BACKWARDS towards the windshield? By doing this, is it moving the VCT to PDS at the same time? If this is true and is the next correct step, where are we at with the VCT gear? Is the Tbelt and tensioner STILL supposed to be tight and set up to the point? This is just super confusing so any help is appreciated!

The writeup never says when to loosen the VCT gear if at all but it would only make sense to loosen it at some point. The writeup also never says when to tension or untension the belt and where this step falls. Please clarify gents so I can get this thing on the road!

Oh, and we accidentally forgot to remove the timing pin and tried cranking the car which in turn bent the timing pin pretty good. We got super lucky because it didn't break but my question is where can I source another pin? Can I use something else more readily available?

Sean
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
15 Posts
Tried this over 10 times now with 2 other guys and no dice. Cosvt03 or something else PLEASE text or call me so I csn get this buttoned up!! No codes just sounds like a Subaru when it runs and smells like rotten eggs. RSB great before installing the new t belt. Starting st 8am PST today to hopefully get this figured out! Ivd read all 17 pages twice now and understand it but for some reason we are not correct somewhere. We have a guy telling us the flat spots on the cams should be facing upwards instead of downwards like we are trying to do it.

Sean
503-569-7560
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
6,092 Posts
I didn't see were you inserted the bar at the back of the cams. That keep them where there are supposed to be relative to the cylinders... both cam sprocket bolts must be loosened, then manually rotate the VCT gear counterclockwise until it stops... tighten cam bolts... install belt, idler, tensioner, without rotating the VCT gear. At least, that's how I interpret it.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
152 Posts
IMHO understanding what you are trying to do can clear up the confusion.

The first steps are simply to get the engine to the right position for setting timing, TDC #1 with the cam slots close to flat relative to the head and UP above the head surface so the timing bar can be inserted. (if they are below the surface you are on TDC #4, NOT #1)

Then you can lock the crank at TDC, and proceed to setting the exh. cam in it's position (loosen the gear and twist the cam SLIGHTLY to align it so the timing bar will fit in the slot). If this is not close to the correct position DO NOT loosen it yet, but instead review your positioning steps, probably NOT at TDC #1)


The next steps are where confusion reins, and understanding is most needed.

Rotating the intake cam forwards slightly is to squeeze oil out of the VCT gearing, and rotating it back is to feel for the "PDS" (positive dead stop) where it comes to a MECHANICAL limit of travel (not stopped by the hydraulic mechanism). THIS IS THE CRITICAL STEP and needs to be understood. The objective is to get the cam & gear to the PDS position where they have a solid relationship to each other. If this is not achieved, there is NO accurate relationship between VCT & cam so timing can NOT be accurately set.

If this relationship is not close enough to be reached with the less than 1/4 turn movements mentioned in the original instructions, the cam gear must be loosened and VCT moved as needed to repeat the procedure. For example, if the stop is not reached when turning the cam back less than 1/4 turn, then move the VCT forwards less than 1/4 turn & repeat the procedure. Throughout you want to keep the intake cam within that small range of movement from where the slot is flat, NOT twisting it too far off of it's timing mark where the bar could be fitted.


Once that PDS position is solidly established, THEN you can set the intake cam timing.

Cam gear bolt is loosened to allow setting the timing, and then the assy. is rotated to allow the timing bar to fit in the slot. IF it needs to be rotated backwards, you use the cam to move it (this keeps the cam solidly against the PDS position). IF it needs to be moved forwards, you use the VCT to move it (again, this keeps the cam against the PDS position).

Once in position by this manner, you can tighten the cam gear bolts.

Do this with care, and do NOT rely on the timing bar to hold the cams. You can snug the bolts with the bar in place, but remove it for final tightening. Once tightened, you slide the bar back in to recheck your work making sure they didn't move in the process.

Hopefully this makes your objectives clear, increasing understanding of the process and the procedures you have read.


( In review, exh. is easy as it is one solid piece. The intake is two pieces and the relationship (VCT to cam) has to be at a solid position for timing (PDS).)
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
15 Posts
Thanks for trying replies gents. We did exactly the process you just mentioned Sailor. Everything lines up perfectly so I am now attempting to perform a compression test, as I was told a bent valve may make the car sound like a subaru. I cannot get the compression testing piece threaded down into the cylinder, so hopefully I can figure that out but for some reason it will not thread in.

Sean
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
152 Posts
G/L, that can be tricky depending on the gauge setup. It's a long way down in to reach with a hose type, and one with a smaller hose can be tough to get straight to start it threading in.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
6,092 Posts
Did you break your timing belt?
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
15 Posts
Did you break your timing belt?
No simply changing it because it's due.

Ok guys since the compression test I purchased today from HF does not work, the one I rented from Autozone did. I got a perfect 120 a cross all cylinders with the gas pedal to the floor and cranking for 5 seconds. I assume this means my valves are fine.

I am so stumped and we have followed this post to a T, to the letter, plain and simple. We got the timing dead nuts on 2 separate times today. Tom over on FF suggested we advance the cam about 4 degrees so it barely moves. Tried that as well and still sounds like a Subaru. What gives here guys? Could it be a bad coil pack or bad plug wires? All electrical connectors appear to be in place and there does not seen to be any kind of vacuum leaks. Someone mentioned to check to 4 runner couplers that run to the intake behind the head both those are all dirty and gunked up ht appear fine.

I am really stumped guys. My guys and I have done everything correct and we cant get the car to NOT sound like an
Damm subaru!! Help!!!!

Sean
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
152 Posts
No internal mechanical or timing issue then as far as can be told, time to look for other causes like plug wires (disturbed in the process, maybe some internal damage) and everything else possibly affected by the work. That's just to stick with what changed by what you did first as a more likely problem.

Miss a hook up, something forgotten & not plugged in, check the simple stuff first. Too much worry over the timing could have distracted you, not the first time if that is it.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
15 Posts
No internal mechanical or timing issue then as far as can be told, time to look for other causes like plug wires (disturbed in the process, maybe some internal damage) and everything else possibly affected by the work. That's just to stick with what changed by what you did first as a more likely problem.

Miss a hook up, something forgotten & not plugged in, check the simple stuff first. Too much worry over the timing could have distracted you, not the first time if that is it.
I guess I am going to try to source some plug wires locally. I wonder if Autozone might have some decent wires or maybe I could source some from a local Ford Dealer. What about a coil pack...how would I go about checking this? All plugs and connectors look fine and dandy, and as far as I can tell, nothing appears to be broken or unplugged.

Any other ideas or advise as to why my car sounds like a Subaru is greatly appreciated guys!

Sean
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
6,092 Posts
Really, I'd like to know what "sounds like a Subaru" means. Is the engine missing? Is it bogging, when you drop the gas pedal quickly? Does it idle rough? Each of these things has a different cause. How about you get a lot more specific about what you engine is doing???
 
241 - 260 of 272 Posts
Top