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Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
PLEASE PLEASE PLEASE Make sure all your posts in this thread are VERY DETAILED and CLEAR. I would like to keep it clear and to the point so as not to confuse many people that need assistance with their belt and VCT. This process is confusing enough by itself.

I think I have come up with a solution for people running into the dreaded DTCs:

P1381/P0011 Variable Cam Timing over-advanced (Bank 1)
P1383/P0012 Variable Cam Timing over-retarded (Bank 1)

I'm in the verification stages and will elaborate more when it is guaranteed to be working for 1 solid week.
I will also compile information from other threads that I followed to resolve the issue.

It is a very simple process and is pertains 100% to getting the VCT Gear at Positive Dead Stop ...

Still running well. No codes!



Revision 1.3 *11/17/2014*

Assuming the timing belt has ALREADY BEEN REPLACED and the OEM instructions have been FOLLOWED to the letter and tension is ALREADY set and OKAY.

YOU WILL NEED A STRAP/BELT WRENCH TO MAKE THIS PROCESS EASIER!

1. Remove Valve Cover/Spark Plugs and Cam Gear Cover
2. Rotate Cylinder #1 to TDC and insert TDC Pin (Timing Tool)
3. Insert Cam Bar in EXHAUST cam only and loosen the Exhaust cam gear bolt. (Hold cam with wrench!)

Before proceeding, understand that you need to be careful NOT to rotate the cam beyond a quarter turn. (DO NOT ROLL OVER THE CAM!)
Also you MAY have to move the gear a couple times to be able to rotate it back fully to "Positive Dead Stop". ***THIS ALSO MEANS YOU HAVE TO TIGHTEN THE CAM BOLT BEFORE ROTATING AND REPEATING - YOU CAN NOT JUST SPIN IT AND KEEP GOING OR THE CENTER SHEAVE OF THE VCT WILL JUST GAIN SLOP***

4. Use 1" wrench on Intake cam and carefully rotate the cam forward (front of vehicle) - you should hear the oil in the gear squeeze out and see it bubble out near the center of the cam gear.
(This must be done to remove oil pressure to allow you to rotate the cam fully backwards to get the VCT gear to it's dead stop. (It allows the oil to bleed to the opposite side of the gear instead of building pressure and rotating backwards before hitting it's dead stop)

AT ANY POINT THE CAM NEEDS TO BE ADVANCED - ADVANCE IT WITH A STRAP/BELT WRENCH FROM THE VCT GEAR HOUSING

AT ANY POINT THE CAM NEEDS TO BE RETARDED - RETARD IT WITH THE CAM NO SLOP

ONCE THE TIMING BELT JOB IS COMPLETE - YOU SHOULD BE ABLE TO TURN THE ENGINE OVER BY HAND (CLOCKWISE) 10-20-100 TIMES AND EVERYTHING SHOULD LINE UP --- AND IF YOU USE A STRAP WRENCH TO ROTATE THE ENGINE BACKWARDS (COUNTER CLOCKWISE) WITH THE VCT GEAR AND STRAP WRENCH THERE SHOULD BE 0 PLAY/SLACK/SLOP


5. Use 1" wrench on Intake cam and carefully rotate the cam backward (towards windshield) and once the gear starts to rotate the timing belt backwards. STOP
(At this point you have either moved the internal sheave of the VCT gear to full Retard (towards windshield) or pressurized the VCT gear. Double check by rotating cam forward and backward slightly listening and feeling for Positive Dead Stop.)
This indicates how far off the cam is in relation to the dead stop within the VCT gear. (And how many degrees retarded or advanced from the crank.)

6. If you are unable to feel and possibly hear the VCT gear hit it's internal dead stop within a quarter turn of the cam shaft STOP, double check that the crank is still resting against the TDC pin, loosen the VCT Gear and rotate the cam forward a quarter turn, temporarily tighten the VCT gear, and Repeat Step 5.

7. Once VCT gear is at positive dead stop, AND crank is resting against TDC Pin, insert Cam Bar into end of the Intake Cam, Tighten VCT Gear & Exhaust Gear (while holding cam with wrench and cam bar)
{Make sure the VCT gear is against it's Positive Dead Stop)

Depending how far off the VCT gear is, it may be necessary for you to rotate engine back off TDC Pin slightly with both cam gears loose to advance or retard the VCT Gear to be able to complete this process. You will need to use the intake cam (while tight) to advance or retard the gear in relation to the crank (TDC Pin) and reset the VCT Gear & Intake Cam position.
 

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Re: P1381 & P1383 Fix (STICKY once final)

You have a PM.
 

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Discussion Starter #7 (Edited)
Re: P1381 & P1383 Fix (STICKY once final)

Revision 1.2

Assuming the timing belt has ALREADY BEEN REPLACED and the OEM instructions have been FOLLOWED to the letter and tension is ALREADY set and OKAY.

YOU WILL NEED A STRAP/BELT WRENCH TO MAKE THIS PROCESS EASIER!

1. Remove Valve Cover/Spark Plugs and Cam Gear Cover
2. Rotate Cylinder #1 to TDC and insert TDC Pin (Timing Tool)
3. Insert Cam Bar in EXHAUST cam only and loosen the Exhaust cam gear bolt. (Hold cam with wrench!)

Before proceeding, understand that you need to be careful NOT to rotate the cam beyond a quarter turn. (DO NOT ROLL OVER THE CAM!)
Also you MAY have to move the gear a couple times to be able to rotate it back fully to "Positive Dead Stop".

4. Use 1" wrench on Intake cam and carefully rotate the cam forward (front of vehicle) - you should hear the oil in the gear squeeze out and see it bubble out near the center of the cam gear.
(This must be done to remove oil pressure to allow you to rotate the cam fully backwards to get the VCT gear to it's dead stop. (It allows the oil to bleed to the opposite side of the gear instead of building pressure and rotating backwards before hitting it's dead stop)

AT ANY POINT THE CAM NEEDS TO BE ADVANCED - ADVANCE IT WITH A STRAP/BELT WRENCH FROM THE VCT GEAR HOUSING

AT ANY POINT THE CAM NEEDS TO BE RETARDED - RETARD IT WITH THE CAM


5. Use 1" wrench on Intake cam and carefully rotate the cam backward (towards windshield) and once the gear starts to rotate the timing belt backwards. STOP
(At this point you have either moved the internal sheave of the VCT gear to full Retard (towards windshield) or pressurized the VCT gear. Double check by rotating cam forward and backward slightly listening and feeling for Positive Dead Stop.)
This indicates how far off the cam is in relation to the dead stop within the VCT gear. (And how many degrees retarded or advanced from the crank.)

6. If you are unable to feel and possibly hear the VCT gear hit it's internal dead stop within a quarter turn of the cam shaft STOP, double check that the crank is still resting against the TDC pin, loosen the VCT Gear and rotate the cam forward a quarter turn, temporarily tighten the VCT gear, and Repeat Step 5.

7. Once VCT gear is at positive dead stop, AND crank is resting against TDC Pin, insert Cam Bar into end of the Intake Cam, Tighten VCT Gear & Exhaust Gear (while holding cam with wrench and cam bar)
{Make sure the VCT gear is against it's Positive Dead Stop)

Depending how far off the VCT gear is, it may be necessary for you to rotate engine back off TDC Pin slightly with both cam gears loose to advance or retard the VCT Gear to be able to complete this process. You will need to use the intake cam (while tight) to advance or retard the gear in relation to the crank (TDC Pin) and reset the VCT Gear & Intake Cam position.
 

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Re: P1381 & P1383 Fix (STICKY once final)

My 1381 came up literally yesterday after a month of running clean. I'll have to look into this here before long. Weekend is shot, bit possibly within the next fortnight I'll poke around in there.

I might be slow... When do you loosen the intake cam bolt?

I got:
-bar and loosen the exhaust cam bolt
-Rotate intake cam forward to empty the valve and then backwards till it bump stops
At this point, you go into once the VCT is at +stop and crank is on the pin, tighten both cam gears. I don't see where I should loosen the VCT bolt.
 

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Re: P1381 & P1383 Fix (STICKY once final)

Loosen it ONLY if it doesnt hit that stop rotating it towards the windshield in less than 1/4 turn.
 

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Re: P1381 & P1383 Fix (STICKY once final)

Just got back from training...I dont know if I will be able to try it this weekend. I will post up results when I do try it though.
 

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Discussion Starter #12 (Edited)
Re: P1381 & P1383 Fix (STICKY once final)

When you rotate the cam back & find positive dead stop of the gear, the end of the cam (where the cam bar goes) will show you how many degrees off you are, positive or negative, you loosen the gears at this point and rotate the gear in the direction it needs to be rotated, and ONLY fully tighten it when you have positive dead stop on the gear when the cam itself lines up and can have the cam bar inserted.

You will ALWAYS need to make the final adjustment and tighten the gear AFTER turning the gear backwards (towards the windshield to it's dead stop)

The best way to make the final adjustment is to have the crank resting on the TDC pin and be rotating the cam & VCT gear backwards while it's at its dead stop.

This will make much more sense once you are actually working on it. Go slowly and take your time and think about everything before you do it.

AND, once you rock the cam back and forth to empty the chamber, you will ALWAYS have slop in the VCT gear UNLESS it's at positive dead stop (backwards towards windshield) So if you advance the gear far enough forward, you will be turning it backwards to positive dead stop to make your final adjustment at all times.

To advance the gear, loosen, rotate cam backwards (towards windshield) tighten and rotate Gear/Cam forward, loosen.
(Cam will be loose in the advanced position)

To retard the gear, loosen, rotate cam forwards (towards bumper) tighten and rotate Gear/cam backwards, loosen.
(Cam will be loose in the retarded position -[this is also how you would remove slop in the gear towards positive dead stop]-)
 

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Discussion Starter #13
Re: P1381 & P1383 Fix (STICKY once final)

I have spoken with a couple people and it seems they are having trouble verifying if the gear is actually at Positive Dead Stop when they are finished. If you PM me, I will be more than glad to assist you with this. This is the most difficult part, aside from actually adjusting the gear to where it needs to be.
 

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Re: P1381 & P1383 Fix (STICKY once final)

My CEL fixed itself over the weekend, so I can't try this out. Sorry about that. Mine just seems finiky sometimes.
 

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Re: P1381 & P1383 Fix (STICKY once final)

So what causes this? Does something 'slip' after some time or really beating on the car through traffic or something? I remember years ago I had these pop up but they went away after clearing the codes and it's been at least 25k since. But honestly, when I think back on it, it seems like the car lost some bottom-end power ever since then. I wonder if the 'plunger' compensated and doesn't change the timing as much anymore? Or does this only apply to the exhaust cam as your fix appears to be directly related to adjusting it. Are you adjusting the exhaust cam to compensate for misalignment of the intake cam?
 

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Discussion Starter #16
Re: P1381 & P1383 Fix (STICKY once final)

There is oil pressure and a spring (Unsure of spring, but possible) that push the center sheave off its positive dead stop once the cam bolt is loosened to adjust for the new belt. Then you have to move it back to positive dead stop when tightening the VCT gear.
 

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Re: P1381 & P1383 Fix (STICKY once final)

I will be attempting this this week and will post the results. I had to put a new vct on due to attempting to hold the gear itself while loosening the vct bolt. Snapped off a few teeth... Anyone want a vct to cut in half to figure out what gives? Let me know...
 

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Discussion Starter #18
Re: P1381 & P1383 Fix (STICKY once final)

I will be attempting this this week and will post the results. I had to put a new vct on due to attempting to hold the gear itself while loosening the vct bolt. Snapped off a few teeth... Anyone want a vct to cut in half to figure out what gives? Let me know...
PLEASE! I will post pictures in this post even!
 

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Discussion Starter #19 (Edited)
Re: P1381 & P1383 Fix (STICKY once final)

Please Sticky
Any reply to the request to Sticky the Thread?

Trying to source a MN SVTF in need of a Timing Belt replacement so I can Video the Procedure and get it posted to YouTube.
 

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Re: P1381 & P1383 Fix (STICKY once final)

I'll be trying this today/tomorrow, as I messed up the timing when changing the belt. Thank goodness I won't need to remove more than just the covers. Four times is getting to be too much...though I can now disassemble it all really quickly now...
 
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