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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Okay, I searched but couldn't find a good answer. I have a Ninja that had a melted lower fairing (portions of the fairing were badly distorted from the header). This happened because the prior owner lost(?) most of the fasteners on the fairing, which allowed it to shift closer to the pipes.

Anyways, I have a new fairing now, but was thinking I might be able to do a home-repair on the old one using fiberglass and sell it.

The problem is, I have no earthly idea if the fiber/resin could withstand the heat...the original fairing material is plastic.

I would plan, of course, to line the fairing with heatshield material, which would help substantially, but I would still want the repair to be able to withstand at least 300 deg temps.

Does anyone know if this is feasable, or should I just junk the deformed fairing?
 

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Fiberglass cures by heat. The resin and hardner create a reaction that heats up to cure the resin. It can withstand some decent heat. I have a fiberglass heat shield on my intake that sits by the engine and battery cover... Not exactly right near the header but it gets hot in there. As long as its not like... TOUCHING the header, and has a little bit of a heat shielding, It shouldn't melt or deform.
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
that's what i figured, considering hoods are made of the stuff...but I wasn't sure if there was a special resin or something i should use. Also, how well will everything adhere to the existing plastic (I was going to cut out the melted portion and kind of "patch" the resulting hole).

I am completely clueless when it comes to FG, although I am very handy and have read through some of the ICE tutorials regarding glassing.

I just want to ensure that it's worth the effort and materials before I go out and buy everything.
 

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A lot of people say it doesnt adhere to plastic well... But from my experience... if you scuff it up enough, it will stick to mostly anything, I just glassed a radio bezel which is plastic and it worked just fine. Scuff it well and glass, and be prepared for a lot of sanding.
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
Great, thanks for the advice...

If I do a back side/front side patch across the hole, the FG adhering to itself at the actual hole will more than compensate for a less-than-perfect bonding between the glass and the plastic. This sounds like a fun project and a good way for me to get a little FG experience under my belt. Do you have any recommendations as to actual materials? I've seen there are all sorts of fiberglass cloth and resins.
 

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For an application like this, id use fiberglass Cloth instead of Chop mat. The Cloth is woven together into a sheet that will lay flat, whereas the chop mat will come apart and make a big messy hard patch that you'd spend days sanding smooth.
 

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yeah, use the woven fabric. i just finished the fiberglassing portion of a FG hood repair (a focus central ram air hood) and i had the cloth stuff, makes for a smoother application and easier to patch and fill.
 

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Okay, I searched but couldn't find a good answer. I have a Ninja that had a melted lower fairing (portions of the fairing were badly distorted from the header). This happened because the prior owner lost(?) most of the fasteners on the fairing, which allowed it to shift closer to the pipes.

Anyways, I have a new fairing now, but was thinking I might be able to do a home-repair on the old one using fiberglass and sell it.

The problem is, I have no earthly idea if the fiber/resin could withstand the heat...the original fairing material is plastic.

I would plan, of course, to line the fairing with heatshield material, which would help substantially, but I would still want the repair to be able to withstand at least 300 deg temps.

Does anyone know if this is feasable, or should I just junk the deformed fairing?
Okay, I searched but couldn't find a good answer. I have a Ninja that had a melted lower fairing (portions of the fairing were badly distorted from the header). This happened because the prior owner lost(?) most of the fasteners on the fairing, which allowed it to shift closer to the pipes.

Anyways, I have a new fairing now, but was thinking I might be able to do a home-repair on the old one using fiberglass and sell it.

The problem is, I have no earthly idea if the fiber/resin could withstand the heat...the original fairing material is plastic.

I would plan, of course, to line the fairing with heatshield material, which would help substantially, but I would still want the repair to be able to withstand at least 300 deg temps.

Does anyone know if this is feasable, or should I just junk the deformed fairing?
Fiberglass starts to break down after 200°. It will begin to soften up after that. But given the distance between the header and the lower cowel and faring from the head gives pleanty of airflow to keep it from getting that hot. You can always go to a hvac store or hardware and get a roll of foil heat tape. It's what I use on the ductcwork and furnace to seal certain things up. Its made for high heat and very sticky on the back and of course its an insulated foil tape. Can shave an 1/8th" foam insulation or fibeinsulation block to what ever shape you want and cover the top with the foil tape. Glue it on the inside of the Cowell or faring. Best heat shield ever for few dollars. I make all my bikes fairings custom. Just so happens I have a 97 zx-62, a 2000zx-6r and a 2006 636. I fabed an 04 subframecto fit my 2000 to put the 04 whole tail set up so I have to put the gas tank side of the 00 and the tail side of the 04 and combine them to fit and reapolster. I always hated the 00 side faring bit especially pipe side. And I think the 97s look better then the 04s. The 97s are really close to the same bolt pattern all the bikes frames are almost identical. Bit the upper Cowell on the 97 and 00 dont dont quite match up where the connect with the side fairings so I had to chop and fibe them to match up. But..... why this long story is important is if you can get your hands on one big polyfoam block or just glue a few sheets together ( the purple insulation get it homedepot) you can either carve a perfect contoured or your faring. Or just use some acetone and wet your faring with it and push the faring down on the foam block. The acetone with melt the foam and since you got pressure on the fairing on the foam , the foam will melt to the conture of the fairing. You now have a mold to work with any way your want. Just line it with fibe resin then cloth then more resin with your faring together in your mold and viola easy peazy my friend and way less sanding and mess. And you got your self a mold when ever you and make your own fibe parts after that. Especially if you make a mold of the whole entire piece of what ever your doing. Oooorrrr you can get clay like they use to make concept parts.
 
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