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Discussion Starter #422
Love when this thread updates. Where are you planning on mounting the breather tank?
Right over the top of the right side engine mount close to the fuse box. That way I can use the two bolt holes from that black tray that is no longer in place. The filter is already on its way but I had to send in a certificate so it probably won't be here until next week late. I should be able to get the positioning figured out before it arrives as I have the dimensions for the filter. In the mean time I want to get a few other things done.
 

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Had to roll two beads in my turbo piping and I don't want to sound cheap but I didn't want to spend $300 on a tool right now to do this. That and I couldn't confirm that the one I want can do anything but one size so I took to the internet for options and came across an altered crimping pliers to do the job. I had to take my time but I think it turned out pretty good. Here is a picture of a bead and the tool I made up.



The piping is now all finished up so I will take another picture once it is installed.

Next up the oil breather tank. The template.



Cut out.



Partially welded.



It was at this point that I realized it is too tall for where I want to place it so the easiest way to shorten it was to change the filter element. I am now going to use a K&N racing carburetor assembly and mount it directly to the top face. Dimensions for this are 4.5" X 7" with a 2 " height. This should save enough room.
This is so sexy I may touch myself... Kidding. I just saw Deadpool. Seriously, that is seriously cool being able to visualize your idea and get it done!!!
Getting quotes from a bunch of folks for simple stuff like my downpipe; they all want an arm and a leg for this type of work! The kicker is you just know it only costs $50 if you do it yourself.
 

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Had to roll two beads in my turbo piping and I don't want to sound cheap but I didn't want to spend $300 on a tool right now to do this. That and I couldn't confirm that the one I want can do anything but one size so I took to the internet for options and came across an altered crimping pliers to do the job. I had to take my time but I think it turned out pretty good. Here is a picture of a bead and the tool I made up.



The piping is now all finished up so I will take another picture once it is installed.

Next up the oil breather tank. The template.



Cut out.



Partially welded.



It was at this point that I realized it is too tall for where I want to place it so the easiest way to shorten it was to change the filter element. I am now going to use a K&N racing carburetor assembly and mount it directly to the top face. Dimensions for this are 4.5" X 7" with a 2 " height. This should save enough room.
This is so sexy I may touch myself... Kidding. I just saw Deadpool. Seriously, that is seriously cool being able to visualize your idea and get it done!!!
Getting quotes from a bunch of folks for simple stuff like my downpipe; they all want an arm and a leg for this type of work! The kicker is you just know it only costs $50 if you do it yourself.
 

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Discussion Starter #425
Deadpool was great!

Fabrication work isn't cheap. I can do most of the work we have done thus far but if I think there is something crucial or if I don't have complete confidence (as in the mistake will cost more in the long run) I will have it done.

This vehicle has been a learning tool for things I want to be able to do in the future though!
 

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Deadpool was great!

Fabrication work isn't cheap. I can do most of the work we have done thus far but if I think there is something crucial or if I don't have complete confidence (as in the mistake will cost more in the long run) I will have it done.

This vehicle has been a learning tool for things I want to be able to do in the future though!
After a bad experience I couldn't let someone else keep touching my car. That right there is how I got into my job.
 

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Discussion Starter #427
Accomplished a few things this weekend but a mini cooper took up most of my time.

cleaned up the turbo piping and installed it.



Finished wrapping exhaust and screamer pipe.



Since I couldn't locate a mustang TPS plug harness, I ended up converting to weatherpack plugs on both sides. This worked out since it needed to be lengthened. I will keep the harness side out of the plug until we start the car so I don't have to take it apart later if it is not in the correct order.

 

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Discussion Starter #429
Had a bit of panic this weekend when I was going to bleed the brakes. Two of the Brembo bleed nipples were seized badly! :eek: Luckily after heating them a few times and tapping on them with a flat bunch I managed to break them free. Just ordered a new set of stainless ones which I though they came with from the beginning!

Started connecting electrical and it seems to be going pretty good so far, can't believe how many unused plugs there are. Another thing I will most likely have to due is flip the turbo oil feed and temp sensor because after looking at it I think the tolerance will be too tight for the sensor plug.

Still waiting on a K&N setup for by oil breather. (going on two weeks now :()

Still a chance this may be running by the end of the month! :)
 

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Discussion Starter #431
After I had an issue with bleed nipples I ordered a new set in stainless and they arrived this week. When putting them in I had an issue getting the very last one to thread and upon closer examination I noticed the last bleed nipple I pulled took some aluminum with it!

After having a bit of a panic attack and researching where I could find another caliper I remembered what we do on most race cars that use aluminum calipers.

So I cleaned out the threads and ordered a complete set of PFC inserts and bleed nipples.



These are not cheap for what they are ($115) but it was much cheaper then sourcing another caliper right now and they hold up to tons of brake bleeding abuse at the track. Also they all seemed to torque up fine so crisis averted. :)

Also finished the AN lines for the valve cover and oil separator.

 

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Well here is the shop so far in all her glory, we are still moving things around and I am doing woodwork for the house so it is a mess:


I don't know why I haven't seen this thread but, a lot of hard has gone into this man.
I would of put in blue racing seats.
Who made the turbo manifold???
That white car in the back right????
 

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Discussion Starter #434 (Edited)
Well here is the shop so far in all her glory, we are still moving things around and I am doing woodwork for the house so it is a mess:


I don't know why I haven't seen this thread but, a lot of hard has gone into this man.
I would of put in blue racing seats.
Who made the turbo manifold???
That white car in the back right????
Racing seats are being reupholstered. They will look something like this with my own twist:


Top Speed manifold

Spitfire
 

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Discussion Starter #435 (Edited)
Extremely glad I waited to do the last of the electrical in the engine bay and vacuum hose plumbing until after the brakes were bled!

A word of advice when making your own brake lines is to make sure they are perfectly straight and tightened well (more then what I remembered)

I hooked up my power bleeder this weekend and I had a nice mess by the time I was done. Luckily all my connections on the inside of the car were tight and it was mainly issues in the rear (I must have installed the lines and not tightened them up all the way) Only one brake line had to be pulled and re-cut/flared and I ended up having to do it twice. This was one of the lines going to a three way before it dives into the car so you can imagine how much fun this was to work on.

Here is a picture for reference before the engine was in. (Top line was leaking)


4 hours later I can say that everything is bled and now I can move on to finishing the engine bay connections so I can finally test the electrical and try turning over and priming the engine!
 

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Discussion Starter #437 (Edited)
Hooked up the battery last night to make sure we are getting power to certain areas and ran into an issue with getting power to the actual key. I can get power to the light switch which turns the dash lights on but I am not getting much else although the correct voltage is definitely circulating.

I took some pictures and was going to post up my diagram but after looking over it some more in the morning I think I have it figured out.

I need to try one more thing tonight and if I am still having issues I will be back here to hopefully find some answers.

If I can get the engine oil primed this weekend I will order the start up tune so we can all finally hear this thing run!
 

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Discussion Starter #438
Well figured out the ignition issue but then I moved right on to a whole new set of issues. Anyone know who the electrical expert is on here in case I come across a problem I can't solve?

Thanks Guys!
 
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