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Discussion Starter #21
Tearing into it

Intake Manifold off



Popped fuel rail out and pulled old injectors





Old injectors v new injectors



Spliced in new pigtails



When pulling the rain try to get the ECU out I managed to some how crack the ****** windshield. Unsure how the plastic didn't break but the glass did. So very pissed...





Parents living room still littered with all my parts



IE billet DV cover installed



Studs installed to manifold



Buddy bolting turbo to manifold and the lady friend fingering a wrench



Old exhaust out and down pipe set into place. (Note getting the factory header/dp out is a gigantic pain in the dick)





Some added displacement



Oil pan removed, drilled out, drain flange installed and pan back in.









Factory oil cooler out and mocal sandwhich plate in





AEM Tru Boost solenoid mounted



Tried to mount gauge in my dual column pod... but the damn surround (and whole gauge) sits out too far and the steering wheel can't turn fully.





At this point we gave up for the weekend tired and frustrated with issues we ran into

1) I'm a moron and forgot to order new exhaust manifold gaskets until like 4pm Friday and no dealer / local autoparts store carries the 3.2 gaskets so I'll have to wait till Monday for those.

2) The large copper washer provided for the oil feed sandwhich banjo thingy that gets oil from the tensioner bolt was too small. Would fit over the threads of the bolt. Alan from HPA spend a couple hrs for me scouring the globe to find me a similar washer. Turns out Napa PN 7041364 is a copper oil pan drain plug washer of similar dimension. Of course napa didn't have that in stock either and could only order me a container of 10.
 

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Discussion Starter #22
More work

Finally got my new exhaust manifold gaskets so some more progress could be made. Not much got done last night but it's a big change!

First had to do a little shaving of the manifold to fit. Driver side bottom contact a protrusion of the block a little bit. Couple minutes with a dremel and fit like a charm.









Oil return line mounted. Bolted to turbo and oil pan, and the support bracket put on





And got a replacement copper washer for the wrong size one to mount the oil feed line.

 

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Discussion Starter #23
Even more work. This update posed some issues I had to get around but figured it all out.

HPA returned my ECU to me yesterday. The super rushed it due to some other parts issues I had. I got a nice new shiney back of copper nuts for the manifold so I swapped most of those out for the reused old ones I had. There are a couple on the bottoms side near the turbo I didn't feel like trying to change out because the studs like to come out and I didn't want to deal with it.



Once that was finally all done I got the downpipe all bolted up





Next came the re-routing of the O2s. I had opted for new O2s and ordered the Bosch ones that listed on ECS for the R32. (I bought off amazon for slightly cheaper but it was the same part numbers). They were the correct connectors and the correct length when compared to the OEM ones that were attached to my factory exhaust however the passenger side one would not fit. And by not fit I mean the wiring was WAY too short due to the new location for the sensors (like 6-8inches). Didn't take full pictures of the work and the finish but I chopped a section of wire from my factory one and extended the wiring out like 7ish inches and now the connector reaches to where it needs to be. HPAs directions were very unclear when it came to the 're-routing' of the wiring. The guide says to peel back the wire wrapping and pull wire out but my factor sensors don't have any extra wire in the bundle so I have no idea what they were actually talking about. (since this post I realized what I was supposed to do. It's all good though cuz this ended up working out pretty good.)



Since all that was done and the oil and water return/feed lines were all installed and tightened up I moved on to the heat shield. This is where issue #1 and 2 came. 1). The holes for the heat shield mounting to the manifold/brackets didn't line up the greatest. I had to elongate the slot closes to the engine on the driver side. Didn't quite fit. 2). I had to dremel some of the heat shield away to have a decent amount of clearance for the wastegate actuator rod. The shield was touching the rod.







Coolant return plumbed into the coolant system



Started to run vacuum lines for the EBC





At this point I realized I needed a little more coolant line of the smaller diameter to attached the top coolant tube (hpa provided) to the top bung on the coolant ball, so I just decided to call it a night and attempt to go to bed at a reasonable time.

Tonight my new pressure sender should arrive for the oil pressure gauge as well as my new oil temp sensor. I'll be wiring those up and getting them in as well as continue buttoning up the engine bay.
 

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Discussion Starter #24
Heat shields are annoying

Not a lot got done last night. Was fighting with the stupid A/C heat shield.

1) Finally figured out where the hell it went with some photo help from deadrabbits and a call to HPA tech.
2) The bracket mounting is difficult. the bracket actually required me to pre bend it over my knee so it would bend around the frame rail and fight over both studs on the frame. It mounts on the studs that hold the wire harness for what I believe is the O2 sensor wires running down under the car. Pop off the 2 plastic things holding the loom in place and place the bracket on them and secure with provided plastic nuts. (Photos below)
3) The holes in the heat shield itself did not line up with the brackets weld nuts at all. literally like 1 full bolt hole diameter off. See below for photos of how much additional slotting I had to do to get the bolts through and the shield mounted.

Heat shield bracket





Heat shield bolt hole off, and mounted photos








Other than that I finished the upper coolant line connection to the expansion tank. And I also tried test fitting some of the silicon pieces to make sure I have clearance. For the life of me I have no idea how people fit the bit turbo inlet elbow into place. I know the metal sleeve was inserted to keep the silicon from collapsing under boost and once I get it on the turbo I'm sure it'll fit but trying to install that hard break line appears to be in the way of getting the hose into place. Maybe I just need some more brute force but I don't want to damage anything.
 

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Discussion Starter #25
And then there was this:

Vacuum lines hooked up to the boost control solenoid



IE Billet diverter valve cover fully installed and line attached



Got my new oil temp gauge in and installed. Put the old oil pressure gauge into the column pod as well. Getting a custom vent pod created for the boost gauge to go in the vent above the headlight switch.





Forgot to take pictures of it finished but here is the start of the oil cooler heat exchanger mounting



New rubber PCV hose ran



Then started to put all the stuff back together. Intake manifold installed. Again we run into some quality issues of holes not lining up for stuff





Moving on from that I decided to start test fitting the silicon pieces. First of all I found out after much trial and error there is an order in which the silicone pieces and the airbag need to go back in. Also found out how little space there really is in this are. First attempt and test fitting and the turbine inlet pipe installed and attached to the airbox. Then tried to fit the boost hose and realize there is literally 0 room for the TB



And that the boost hose and the turbo inlet silicon attempt to occupy the same space.



also also the pcv inlet interferes a little with the boost hose as well



After I found out this issue I forgot to take any other photos during my modifications of things to make it all fit. I ended up cutting about 4cm of silicon off the turbo inlet pipe on the end that attaches to the airbox. The idea for this was to make it so the hose had to move more drivers side away from the boost pipe and create a little more clearance.

Also after installing the TB one needs to then install the boost pipe and then the airbox last. I think the 4cm of removed silicon was a little too much because getting it to fit on the airbag required 2 people. one to pull with much might to get the hose over the airbag/maf tube and another to quickly secure the hose clamp. However I finally did get it done!









Also put in new spark plugs, and new coil packs. Filled it with coolant and oil. Plugged in the ECU and lucky for me she started first try!! (well 2nd.. first crank I accidentally cut off early because I forgot how much longer it would take for the fuel to refill the completely drained rail haha). It started fine and idled great however if I gave it a quick rev it would rev up then die. Being late at night I gave up and decided to figure it out the next day (also no idea where my first start video is. I think it's on the gf's phone.. oh well).

Once I was home it dawned on me that not only did I forget to hook up the vacuum line for the IM change over, I completely forgot to plug in the MAF connector back in.. So of course it'll have issues. Sure enough got back to the car Sunday AM and plugged those 2 things in and she ran like a champ. Finished burping the coolant system and took it out for a nice first drive around the block!

Slapped the bumper back on and finally the car was able to go back home and not spend the night in my parents garage again!



The car runs great. Very smooth. The first 100 miles of no boost break in were hell simply because it was so tempting to just mash my foot down. I do have the engine light on now for 1 code. Surprisingly not the SAI delete which I thought it would be. Apparently I think I missed 1 vacuum line somewhere for the Flapper. Yes the flapper. Previous I had a switch hooked up to the flapper (flapper mod) and I had no light but now magically there is a light for it. Honestly not sure what to do or where the line actually is. I've hooked up everything I could find in the general area of the vacuum canister (save the SAI stuff I deleted). But w/e just a minor annoyance really.

I'm currently on vacation so a buddy of mine who has been a giant help during the build has the car for the week to add more break in miles but I managed to sneak in the first 100 before I left a snapped a couple videos of some WOT pulls.

First impressions. Extremely quiet. Stock airbag and stock exhaust make it so you don't really hear any of the spool even with all the windows closed. Also the turbo spools so quickly and so smoothly you don't really get that lag and then kick in the pants. The power just comes on and it feels like a higher power NA car. It honestly doesn't even FEEL that much quicker until you look at the speedo and realize how much quicker you're actually going. It's rather fantastic I say. More review items to come later when I get home and more miles on the car personally. Below are the videos of said first pulls before I left on vacation.

 

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Damn! R32 Turbos are wicked. Quite an investment you have on that beast with that HPA kit (they're so cheap, lol). Can I drive it, please? Enjoy your smile time behind the wheel boosting away.
 

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The want is real.

- Drew
 

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Discussion Starter #30
Damn! R32 Turbos are wicked. Quite an investment you have on that beast with that HPA kit (they're so cheap, lol). Can I drive it, please? Enjoy your smile time behind the wheel boosting away.
Oh I smile every time!

This thread went far better than expected.

I'd drive that!
Haha. Thanks man

The want is real.

- Drew
How the tides have turned. I remember my first hell cruise having the same feelings about your yellow car. I'll have to find time to head down river and give you a ride.

Very nice! I do not envy those tight working spaces, ouch. Which EFR did you go with? Fantastic turbos.
Kit came with the 7670. They really are fantastic.
 

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Discussion Starter #32
Long weekend. I was experirmenting with trying to get my oil temps up because I was having issues getting oil to operating temp. In the 50 degree weather here in MI with the oil cooler doing an extremely good job I was struggling to get the oil temps above 180 even in stop and go traffic. I had cut out the filled in holes of the drivers bumper vent so the oil cooler would get air flow. As an experiment I electrical taped the vent back shut. This seems to work because even on the highway I'm able to keep the temps at 190 ish cruising and once on surface streets it'll be in the lower 200 range. Going to source a new driver vent un-cut out and have one of each as I'm sure in the summer I'll want the cut out one again.

Once I got that under control I proceeded to strap the gopro to the car and take some various video clips. Right after my last pull I get a beep from the dash to check the coolant. I pulled over and sure enough I'm low. like coolant ball empty low. I happened to have a gal of water in the back of the car so I dumped that in and it just ran right through and came out below the car. I caught it fast enough and no temps had spiked so I let it cool down a bit. Dumped as much water in as I could as fast as I could and babied the car the 3 minutes back to my gf parents house and shut er down. Again no oil temps or anything spiked. Got the car up in the air. Apparently one of the coolant hoses we used to drain the coolant during the turbo install had the hose clamp removed from the nipple on the other end of the damn hose that we didn't disconnect. I didn't realize my buddy had done that so I didn't put it back. Just blew the hose off. Super simple fix and I was up and running the next morning after the dealer opened and I got another gal of G12.

So that problem solved, yesterday I was able to get some dyno time just to do some power pulls.

First pull we did we forgot the A/F tail pipe sniffer guy. Second pull we did and the A/F readings were a little wonky. It held like 13 ish up until what I believe from, what I remember, was like 4600 rpm (didn't realize till I left that graph accidentally got printed out with time on the x-axis). But then after dropped down to what we'd expect to see in a turbo car of 11ish. Unsure why that would be. I did a few pulls the previous day to make sure no damage occured from the coolant debacle of the previous day and everything felt fine that morning however while on the way to the dyno I would notice some weird feeling in the pedal/the motor in like partial boost at lower rpm. I have never experienced knock before so I can't say if it was that or not. Could be the motor mounts going and the motor just rotating. Honestly I'm not sure. No idea if its why the a/f reads weird or not either. The guy at the shop says he things there may have been some timing pulled as evident by the graphs looking not so smooth in the lower end. We didn't do a 3rd pull for these reasons just to be safe. I haven't gotten into boost since then either and have just drove the car. Want to make sure all is well before boosting again so I don't break anything. Anyway on the graphs. Please give me some input.

Pull 1 255awhp/245awtq



Pull 2 242awhp/239awtq (ended this pull a little early due to the weird A/F readings. Also as mentioned above apologies I didn't notice this got printed out with time on x-axis until I was like half hour away from the shop)



Seems fairly reasonable power though. Stock numbers are 247/236 crank and reported average stock wheel numbers at all 4 is around the 190 area. Math indicates about 23% loss. So HPAs 350 at 23% loss is around 270hp. Factor in Mustang dynos generally reading a bit low (so I hear) and the fact that my car just turned over 150k miles on Saturday I think that's pretty good gains.
 

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Are you running a thermostat in the sandwich plate or cooler? If not, I 100% suggest one. Unless this was a track-only car, you really need one. Come cooler weather the car will never get up to temp even with that vent completely blocked.

Any way you can work on the tune file? The hesitation you're feeling sounds like it being way too lean. If you're targeting 11:1 at max boost and WOT, I would expect to see the AFRs below 14 as soon as you get out of vacuum and by a few pounds in already be sub-13:1. I wouldn't feel comfortable seeing 13:1 at WOT or any more than a few pounds of boost. Where your graph starts to dip AFRs around 1sec into the pull it should continue right down to 11:0 or so.

Are you still running a cat? That would and could affect your AFR readings at the tail pipe and may have it show lean by a half point. If that's the case...you're not too bad, but still a bit lean through most the rev range.
 

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Discussion Starter #34 (Edited)
Yes my sandwhich plate is thermostated. I do think I hooked it up backwards to my liking though. (I mis read something and hooked up my outlet to my inlet and resulted in trying to pump oil up through the exchanger rather than have gravity pull it through.) easy fix next oil change to swap the lines around.

One thing I don't know if I mentioned here as I'm just copying / pasteing from my thread on VWVortex. I deleted the OEM oil cooler when I did this kit. The OEM unit flows coolant through the cooler to help keep oil temps down. As a bonus since the coolant heats up much quicker is also acts as an assist to warm the cold oil up to operating temp. I deleted it due to adding the oil cooler and the OEM R unit is too thick to run both. I'm trying to also source the older 12v VR unit which is thinner so I can run OEM and the aftermarket coolers. This should also help keep the temps up to operating temp.

edit: Realized I didn't answer all the questions lol.

No I can't personally tweak the tune. I can have it tweaked though I'm sure. I am in the process of getting access to a vag-com (data logger/scan tool) and a buddy who is more experienced than I and logging and what not to have a closer look.

I am running factory cats/exhaust which is what the kit was designed for. A couple of my friends seem to agree that the cat would effect tail pipe readings but when I called the shop back and asked if that would make a difference he made it seem like he tunes cars with cats with a tail pipe sniffer all the time. Regardless of it being a little lean in the lower rpm or not the fact that it goes rich (or rather to a good target) so dramatically higher up still makes no sense.
 

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Discussion Starter #35
Update.

I got my ECU back on Monday finally. Car has been running fine since then. I have not had the time yet to do any data logging with the tweaks to the tune but I'll be trying to do that as soon as I can.

Also I have purchased a winter daily vehicle. The lady friend and I bought together and she gets to rock the car out in the summer so I'll still be driving the R a lot in the nicer weather but I've decided to park the R over winter. Trying to get 7qts of oil up to temp in my less than 5mi drive to work is too much of a hassle and I don't want to risk anything over the winter. I have full confidence the car would be perfectly fine over winter and if my commute was a good half hour or so I'd probably just drive it but oh well. Life worked out good to pick up a 2nd vehicle again so I did lol.

I present the daily scrub



2004 Audi A4 Avant Quattro 6MT
 

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Discussion Starter #36
Holy crap I haven't been on here in a long time. This thread requires an update. I'll try and get on here after work and get this thing up to speed.
 
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