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Discussion Starter #1
Hi everyone! I just replaced the battery cables, serpentine belt and all 3 mounts on my '01 ZX3. It took me a week to put the battery and alternator back in while I worked on the other stuff but I'm finally finished. When I turned the key the dash lit up and radio came on but didn't start. No click, nothing. When I turned the key, it felt like when there's air in the brake lines, spongy, but in my hand. Also noticed the odometer changed to all dashes each time I turned the key then back to numbers when I stopped which I've never seen it do. Tried a jumpstart but still got nothing. Could it be the battery? The dash, lights and everything turns on, even charged my phone. What did I miss? What did I do wrong?
 

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Check the ground wire on the negative battery harness. I had the same issue many years ago; the wire that connects to the harness at the battery terminal had corroded and separated, so there was no ground back to chassis. No engine ignition, but other electrical systems worked. Also make sure that the ground connection on the chassis is in good shape. Good luck!
 

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That was it! Thanks for your help. Finally got it running! It ran beautifully for 2 days and then...MY CHECK ENGINE LIGHT ON AGAIN???? MY CAR SOUNDS LIKE THERE'S A HELICOPTER STUCK UNDER THE ENGINE!!!!! AND THE TEMP NEEDLE JUST RED-LINED! WHY IS IT OVERHEATING?? 😫 Belt and pulleys look fine. It started with that choppy noise, like a helicopter but deeper. It gets louder, car starts to shake then there goes the needle.Temp shoot's up faster when I'm idle. What the heck happened? It was running so good! It drove so smoothly and the AC was beyond cold. I thought I fixed it...🥺 I drove it Friday afternoon, worked all day Saturday (I'm a courier/delivery driver) without any issues; ran beautifully actually. Had AC on 98% of the time and was ice cold every time. Sunday morning I heard what sounded like a rubbing or grinding noise. I thought maybe I didn't put the plastic tire we'll cover back in correctly after charging the AC and the tire was rubbing but it was fine. I do need to replace the rotors but they're not terrible. Noise quickly got worse, louder now with vibrations I could feel in the steering wheel which made me really think rotors. But then it got real bad super loud like a helicopter and the whole car shook along with it and literally within seconds the needle went from normal to redline so I pulled over, shut it off and popped the hood so it could cool. In 4 hours it went from 100% fantastic to redline hell. It shakes violently if I go over 40mph and redlines after 15 minutes of city driving. It feels like the car is driving itself. I take my foot off the gas and it speeds up! It's like it's on cruise control. I just don't get it. I was running perfect! Man, I hope it's something dumb like I forgot to hook up something or left something out even...😓😓 I'm sure I did something wrong somewhere, something correctable and or inexpensive. Please let it be that and not something else. I couldn't work for almost 2 wks bc my car was broken down. I spent my very last $ on these repairs. If I can't get it running, I can kiss my job's goodbye and join the millions filing for unemployment.
 

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That's a lot of stuff to go wrong, I empathize with you. It's going to be hard to point you in the right direction, so it'll be helpful if you can get a read on the code(s) that is causing the check engine light to come on.

There are three things you touched, the motor mounts, serpentine/alternator and the electrical system. The overheating at idle suggests that the serpentine was routed incorrectly so that the water pump isn't spinning. I would suggest that you take a good look at that serpentine belt and make sure that the alternator is still bolted in tightly and not wiggling around.

The violently shaking points to something wonky with the engine mounts. Make sure they aren't loose and are torqued properly. If you didn't use a torque wrench, get a loaner from an autopart store, like Autozone, O'reilly's or whatever is close by and re-tightening to spec.

When you say redlining, how do you mean - do you have an automatic or manual? If automatic, is not upshifting at a certain gear/speed? These ZX3's do not have an electronic throttle, so you could check to see if the throttle body is sticking by blipping it from the engine bay (while in neutral of course). If you have cruise control on your car, you can pull the fuse for it, so at least you know that's not doing something weird.

Good luck - I know how frustrating it can be.
 

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Discussion Starter #5
That's a lot of stuff to go wrong, I empathize with you. It's going to be hard to point you in the right direction, so it'll be helpful if you can get a read on the code(s) that is causing the check engine light to come on.

There are three things you touched, the motor mounts, serpentine/alternator and the electrical system. The overheating at idle suggests that the serpentine was routed incorrectly so that the water pump isn't spinning. I would suggest that you take a good look at that serpentine belt and make sure that the alternator is still bolted in tightly and not wiggling around.

The violently shaking points to something wonky with the engine mounts. Make sure they aren't loose and are torqued properly. If you didn't use a torque wrench, get a loaner from an autopart store, like Autozone, O'reilly's or whatever is close by and re-tightening to spec.

When you say redlining, how do you mean - do you have an automatic or manual? If automatic, is not upshifting at a certain gear/speed? These ZX3's do not have an electronic throttle, so you could check to see if the throttle body is sticking by blipping it from the engine bay (while in neutral of course). If you have cruise control on your car, you can pull the fuse for it, so at least you know that's not doing something weird.

Good luck - I know how frustrating it can be.
Thank you for our suggestions, now I know what to go back and rechec.2😟Fddhh0ox9ff00000
That's a lot of stuff to go wrong, I empathize with you. It's going to be hard to point you in the right direction, so it'll be helpful if you can get a read on the code(s) that is causing the check engine light to come on.

There are three things you touched, the motor mounts, serpentine/alternator and the electrical system. The overheating at idle suggests that the serpentine was routed incorrectly so that the water pump isn't spinning. I would suggest that you take a good look at that serpentine belt and make sure that the alternator is still bolted in tightly and not wiggling around.

The violently shaking points to something wonky with the engine mounts. Make sure they aren't loose and are torqued properly. If you didn't use a torque wrench, get a loaner from an autopart store, like Autozone, O'reilly's or whatever is close by and re-tightening to spec.

When you say redlining, how do you mean - do you have an automatic or manual? If automatic, is not upshifting at a certain gear/speed? These ZX3's do not have an electronic throttle, so you could check to see if the throttle body is sticking by blipping it from the engine bay (while in neutral of course). If you have cruise control on your car, you can pull the fuse for it, so at least you know that's not doing something weird.

Good luck - I know how frustrating it can be.
The cooling fans aren't kicking on! The serpentine belt is installed correctly and all pulleys are spinning. What happened to the fans??
 

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Thank you for our suggestions, now I know what to go back and rechec.2😟Fddhh0ox9ff00000

The cooling fans aren't kicking on! The serpentine belt is installed correctly and all pulleys are spinning. What happened to the fans??
Oh, duh, that makes sense - check the cooling fans electrical harness / resistor pack. It's right there at the top of the fan housing where the electrics plug in. If it looks burnt or corroded, that's your culprit. It seemed to be a common issue; mine burnt out once, too, where the fans would only come on when the A/C was running. Blast from the past Fans are'nt working!!!
 

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Discussion Starter #7
Oh, duh, that makes sense - check the cooling fans electrical harness / resistor pack. It's right there at the top of the fan housing where the electrics plug in. If it looks burnt or corroded, that's your culprit. It seemed to be a common issue; mine burnt out once, too, where the fans would only come on when the A/C was running. Blast from the past Fans are'nt working!!!
The fans aren't running even when I turn on the AC. I'm able to drive without over heating by having the heater on full blast and set to blow through top (defrost) vents only.
 

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If I recall correctly, that resistor pack has two electrical paths. Mine was burnt out on the low side and the high side was OK, which is why it came on with the A/C. Yours might be totally fried. It's a pretty easy thing to check. I don't even think you need a tool. Just pop off the connector and take a look with a light. I remember it being pretty obvious that things were all melty/burnt when I looked at mine.
 

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Discussion Starter #9
If I recall correctly, that resistor pack has two electrical paths. Mine was burnt out on the low side and the high side was OK, which is why it came on with the A/C. Yours might be totally fried. It's a pretty easy thing to check. I don't even think you need a tool. Just pop off the connector and take a look with a light. I remember it being pretty obvious that things were all melty/burnt when I looked at mine.
This one, right?
7459
 

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How's your ride? Any updates?
 
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